Boat lifts keep hulls out of the water and save a lot of cleaning and wear, but they are machines that live in the lake. Pumps, valves, hoses, cables and bunks wear out, and lifts get out of adjustment when you change boats.
Lift types we see
- Air (pneumatic) lifts. Very common on Lake of the Ozarks. Tanks fill with air to float the boat up. Typical problems: slow lifting, leaks, one side higher than the other, worn blowers.
- Hydraulic lifts. Cylinders raise the cradle. Typical problems: leaking seals and hoses, pump issues, uneven lifting.
- Cable/winch lifts. Common on smaller boats. Typical problems: frayed cables, worn pulleys, motor or gearbox issues.
- PWC lifts and ports. Drive-on ports and small lifts for personal watercraft.
Common repairs
- Finding and fixing air or hydraulic leaks
- Replacing hoses, valves, blowers and pumps
- Re-leveling a lift that sits crooked
- Replacing or repositioning bunks and cradles for a new boat
- Replacing cables, pulleys and switches
- Securing the lift to the dock frame after storm damage
Don’t ignore a slow lift
A lift that’s slowly losing air or fluid will usually get worse, and a sudden drop can damage a boat or the dock. If your lift is acting up, request a free estimate and mention the lift brand and type if you know it.
Common questions
Why won't my boat lift stay up?
On air lifts, the cause is usually an air leak in a tank, valve or hose. On hydraulic lifts, it's often a leaking cylinder, hose or valve. A tech can test the system and find the leak.
Can you adjust the bunks for a new boat?
Yes. Bunks and cradles can be repositioned or replaced so a new boat sits level and properly supported.